Emulsifier

Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Cocoate, Glyceryl Stearate SE:

The glyceryl monoesters occur primarily as white to yellow oils or oily waxes.

Glyceryl monoesters are primarily used in the formulation of creams and lotions, moisturizers, and other skin care products, but glyceryl monoesters can also be found in permanent waves, deodorants, bath soaps, eye makeup and foundations.

Waxes

Waxes are complex mixtures of alcohols, fatty acids and esters. They are harder, less greasy and more brittle than fats, and are very resistant to moisture, oxidation and microbial degradation. Waxes very useful cosmetic ingredients based on their various advantageous properties. Generally, waxes have protecting, film-forming, emollient and thickening effects. They provide stability of cosmetic products and enhance their viscosity and consistency.

Beeswax:

Beeswax is a byproduct of honey production. It makes wonderful lip balms, hand lotions, hand creams, moisturizers, in cosmetics, wood finishes, waxes, leather polishes; waterproofing products, and dental molds.

It is impervious to water and unaffected by mildew. It has a melting point of 143 to 148 degrees F. and should only be heated using a double boiler as it is flammable when subjected to fire and flames. It is pliable at 100 degrees F.
Beeswax is produced by the (female) worker honeybees. The wax is secreted from wax glands on the underside of the bee’s abdomen and is molded into six-sided cells which are filled with honey, then capped with more wax. When honey is harvested, the top layer of wax that covers the cells, the cappings, must be removed from each hexagon-shaped cell.

Beeswax in Skincare:
Beeswax in bath and body products is quickly taking the spotlight over similar skin protectants like petroleum jelly. Beeswax when introduced to bath and body products can thicken the consistency. For the skin, beeswax will actually lock moisture in, yet will still allow the skin to breathe. This barrier that beeswax leaves is long lasting too. Not only does this amazing wax keep us moisturized, it also will keep skin protected from the harsh environments. Beeswax also works as a skin softener, and nourishes our skin too.

Beeswax in Cosmetics:
Beeswax is a common ingredient for many of the cosmetics women use everyday like lip balms, lip sticks, lip gloss, eye shadow, eye liner, and even blush. In fact, using beeswax for lip care products will actually help with the healing of cracked, or dry lips, as well as the prevention of getting chapped lips especially during the colder months of the year.

Candellila Wax:

Used to replace other waxes, to add texture, or to help make barrier products, such as lip balms. Our wax is extracted from the candelilla shrub (Euphorbia cerifera) that is found in abundance in and around Mexico’s Chihuahuan Desert. Mass production of the wax started in Mexico in the 20th century and demand increased during the first world war as it was used for waterproofing tents and equipment.

Carnauba Wax:

Carnauba Wax is a wax from the leaves of the palm Copernicia Prunifera, a plant found in northeastern Brazil. It is hypoallergenic, very emollient and has a high melting point — perfect for thickening skin care products (Wiki).

When used in cosmetics, Carnauba Wax gives the product a smooth application and glossy finish. It also helps to keep the product in pliable, yet solid, form (Truth in Aging).

Products found in:
Lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, deodorant, skin care, body moisturizers, hair products, sun care, hair removal products.

Alternative Names:
Brazil Wax; Carnauba; Carnauba Wax; Copernicia Cerefera Wax; Copernicia Cerifera Wax; Waxes, Carnauba; Waxes, Copernica Cerifera; Carnauba Waxes; Copernica Cerifera Waxes; Coperniia Cerifera Wax.

Toxicity:
Sodium Hyaluronate is generally classified as non-toxic or harmful by The Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Database.

Kaolin:

Naturally occurring clay mineral (silicate of aluminum) used in cosmetics for its absorbent properties. Kaolin’s absorbent properties make it a popular ingredient in clay masks for oily skin. Used too often in high amounts, it can be drying, but is otherwise a benign ingredient.

Water:

Water is used in the formulation of virtually every type of cosmetic and personal care product. It can be found in lotions, creams, bath products, cleansing products, deodorants, makeup, moisturizers, oral hygiene products, personal cleanliness products, skin care products, shampoo, hair conditioners, shaving products, and suntan products.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?
Water is primarily used as a solvent in cosmetics and personal care products in which it dissolves many of the ingredients that impart skin benefits, such as conditioning agents and cleansing agents. Water also forms emulsions in which the oil and water components of the product are combined to form creams and lotions. These are sometimes referred to as oil-in-water emulsions or as water-in-oil depending on the ratios of the oil phase and water phase.

Caffeine:

Does Caffeine Absorb Through the Skin?
Yes, caffeine does absorb through the skin. In fact, there was a product a few years ago called SpotOn that was essentially a caffeine patch similar to a nicotine patch.

Therefore, it is possible to get a dose of caffeine through the skin, which could add to a person’s total daily caffeine consumption.

The Caffeine Content Mystery
The cosmetic industry is surprisingly unregulated. Only two of the above products include how much caffeine actually is in their product and even then it is a bit ambiguous. We would guess that, in most cases, there is just a small amount of caffeine in most of the other cosmetics listed, but in some of the products coffee beans are one of the primary ingredients.

Does Caffeine in Skin Products Really Have a Purpose?
Cosmetic companies add caffeine to products based on a couple of studies that point to some potential health benefits of caffeine. However, this industry is notorious for making grand promises, but full of disclaimers such as “reduces the appearance” and “results not typical” etc.

* The University of Washington in Seattle recently conducted a study in which they exposed healthy skin cells and UV damaged skin cells to caffeine. The caffeine caused the damaged cells to die while not hurting the healthy cells. This study was published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. This study didn’t allude to the fact that topically applied caffeine would work any better than ingested caffeine though.
* The second reason for adding caffeine is actually from a number of studies over the years that point to caffeine’s anti-inflammatory properties. So, the theory is that if caffeine is placed under the eye, then it can help reduce puffiness and dark circle as they are caused by inflammation and poor circulation.

What About Caffeine as a Sunscreen?
Caffeine has a sunscreen effect.

Hard to believe – but apparently caffeine will absorb UVB rays when applied to the skin.

Lanolin Derivatives:

What Is It?
Lanolin is an ointment-like material isolated from wool that is sheared from sheep. Lanolin can be separated into Lanolin Oil, a liquid phase, and Lanolin Wax a solid phase. Heating Lanolin with water (hydrolysis) produces a mixture of organic acids (Lanolin Acid) and a mixture of organic alcohols (Lanolin Alcohol). Acetylated Lanolin, Hydrogenated Lanolin, and Hydroxylated Lanolin result when acetate, hydrogen and hydroxyl groups are added to Lanolin, respectively. Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol results when acetate is added to Lanolin Alcohol. Lanolin and its related ingredients are widely used in the formulation of cosmetics and personal care products. These ingredients can be found in baby products, skin care, shaving, manicuring, hair care, suntan and sunscreen products, as well as eye, lip and facial makeup.

Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products?
Lanolin and its related ingredients moisturize the skin, hair and nails. These ingredients act as a lubricants on the skin surface, which gives the skin a soft, smooth appearance. Lanolin helps to form emulsions and blends well with nearly all other substances used in cosmetics and personal care products. Lanolin also possesses adhesive characteristics.

References
Cosmetics Info – Glyceryl Cocoate
Making Cosmetics – Natural Waxes
Rachels Supply – Beeswax Products and Recipes
Nature’s Garden – Beeswax Class
Lush – Candelilla Wax
True Natural – Carnauba Wax
Paula’s Choice – Kaolin
Cosmetics Info – Water
Caffeine Informer – Caffeine and Skin Care Products
Cosmetics Info – Lanolin Alcohol